As of 3/14/2012

After completing a full frame up rebuild of my Scout and cobbling 2 wiring harnesses together with only terrible results, I decided I needed to fully rewire my Scout. I surveyed the market for kits that might work and found a few; EZ-wiring, Painless and a replacement harness from a light line dealer. After looking at the pros and cons of each and looking at the price and the options I wanted, I settled on the EZ-Wiring Kit. I ultimately selected the EZ-21 kit (21 circuits), at the time of my purchase, shipped to my door it was under $200.

I selected this kit as it had all the circuits I would need today, and all the circuits I might need in the future, electric fuel pump, electric fan, and power windows and doors (hey you never know!).

Upon receiving the kit in the mail, the first step was to fully read the instructions and formulate a plan to get it all installed. The kit came very nicely packaged with decent instructions, all of the wires are reattached to the fuse block and every wire is labeled and color coded. The fuse block is a GM style block with modern blade style fuses. The wires are prebundled into groups that correspond to there ultimate destination such as the engine group (engine, AC, ignition, etc), the dash group (gauges, indicator lights, etc) the rear group (tail lights, fuel sender, fuel pump, etc) and the front group (headlights). It all looks very professional.

Before going any further you should assemble all of the parts and tools you will need. Here is a list of the items I needed to complete the rewire:

1 EZ-Wring Kit

1 Scout Service Manual with full wiring diagram (**critical item**)

30 feet of inch split loom

30 feet of inch split loom

10 feet of inch split loom

1 roll electrical tape

1 pair wire cutter

1 pair wire crimper tool

50 each female blade connectors in yellow, blue and red sizes.

20 each butt connectors in yellow, blue and red sizes.

50 10 inch zip ties

50 feet 14-16 gauge wire

Various wire hold downs for attaching wires to frame, body, etc.

The first step in the project is to park your vehicle somewhere where you can leave it for a few days without driving it, as the full install will take more than 1 day (mine took 20-25 hours). First step, UNHOOK the BATTERY. The next step was the most enjoyable for me, remove ALL of the factory wiring, and I mean everything. Disconnect every light, every gauge, every switch, every wire. No need to mark the wires or even remember where they came from just pull them all out. My wiring ended up in a garbage can, probably where it should have been ever since it was designed, considering the years of electrical gremlins I have dealt with.. After fully removing everything it is time to read the instructions again and get ready to start installing things.

When you are ready to begin the installation, start by laying out the wiring harness on the floor and spreading the wires out in there prebundled groups. Go through each bundle and determine if the wires are all correctly grouped you do not want to route everything only to determine the fuel gauge sender wire is hanging out near your front headlights. This is also the time to begin planning where you are going to route everything and where you are going to install the fuse block. I installed my new fuse block in the stock location as the mounting patterns were identical (I was using a 1977 Scout II body). Once you have all the wires grouped as you want them, it is time to place split loom on the engine compartment group and install the fuse block into the truck. It is easier to install the split loom out in the open rather than under the dash.

Once you have the fuse block installed and the wires run to the engine compartment you can begin attaching the split loom to the body and routing the wires were you need them to go, DO NOT get too far ahead of yourself as it may be better to run multiple wire together to once location and then branch from there. This is really your big chance to clean up the engine compartment and make things look nice. I ran my engine wires through the dash and out through the old passenger side bulkhead connector hole, to the coil/AC compressor, down to the alternator and then ending at the starter. Along the way I spilt out any wires that need to go somewhere else. Using the instruction book and your service manual you should be able to easily wire up everything hood at this time. I added the alternator bypass wire that is included in the kit, as I plan to use am alternator with 80 amps or more in the near future the instructions for this are in the back of the manual.

The same process is applied to all of the other areas of the vehicle, add the spilt loom, run the wires, attach the split loom to the body/frame, terminate wires were needed. One note to consider when running the rear wire group, the wires lengths are based on a GM vehicle which ran the wires down the drivers side frame, whereas a Scout ran the wires down the passenger side. Even with my bobbed Scout II, I did not have enough wire length to run the wires through the dash and down the passenger side frame rail to the rear lights, I came up about 2 feet short, not a big deal but something to consider.

Another special area of consideration is the wiper switch circuit and the heater/AC circuit. You will need to make/reuse/build the wiring from the switches for these devices to the devices. This is where your service manual will come in handy. The EZ-wiring kit includes the power-in wires for the switches but not the wires-out to the heater and wipers.

The final note is in regards to gauges I did not reuse my Scout II gauges as they never really worked in the first place. I did reuse the speedometer, using the service manual and the exposed circuit board (like a connect the dot game) on the back of the speedometer was able to wire it up for the turn signal indicators, high-beam indicator and lighting. I am sure you could wire up all of the factory gauges to work fine as the EZ-kit has all of the sender and power wires you need.

Once you think you have everything wired as you want it hook up the battery and turn the key. If you have followed the directions it WILL START. Mine did and it is still running fine today with no gremlins and no problems.


Since doing the first install, I have completed 2 more full ez-wiring installs and had the same success! I have recommended them to many people.